The
Accutron Q. & A. Page
Copyright 2002 by Martin Marcus. All rights reserved.
These pages may not be copied without written consent.
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These are some of
the questions that I receive via e-mail.
Most Asked Question: Why
is my 214 running super fast?
01.
How can I tell the age of my
watch?
02.
Can I still get a
battery for my Accutron 214 wristwatch?
03. How can I tell if my
watch is a model 214?
04. Does Bulova still repair
the 214 and can I get parts?
05. How do I identify my particular model & what information is coded into
the serial number?
06.
Why does the second hand jump when my watch is shaken or set and is it OK?
07.
My 214 sometimes makes a sort
of buzzing/whining sound. Is this a problem and if so, what is it?
08. Which band or bracelet came
on my watch when it was new?
09. I
installed a new battery in my 214 but it won't run and it doesn't hum any more. What's
wrong with it?
10. Is it OK to run an Accutron
that has been in storage for a long time?
11. What is the value of my watch?
12. How do I know if my Spaceview is a conversion?
13. What is the difference between a deceptive
conversion and an honest one?
14.
Is the red second hand on my Spaceview correct?
15. Why does my Accutron seem to run slower when I don't wear it?
16.
What
is a hack and what does it do?
17.
Should I stop my Accutron when I'm
not wearing it?
18.
What should I do if my 214 won't start with a new
battery?
19.
Is it
true that the 360 cycle/second hum of an Accutron has a calming effect on
the wearer?
20.
What musical note is the Accutron hum
closest to?
#1 Q.
How can I tell the age of my watch?
A. Bulova marks
the date on their watch cases and movements as follows. On the back of the watch
at the bottom of the rear cover there is a letter followed by a number. On all
214 models, the letter will be either an “M” or an “N” and it represents
the decade in which the watch was made. M=1960’s and N=1970’s. The number
following the letter is the year of manufacture. Examples: M0=1960, N4=1974. The 1975 Accutron
"Anniversary Spaceview" (Bulova 1875/1975) has no date code.
Movements are usually stamped with a date code on the back at the 12 o'clock position. Some 1960/61 movements have no date code.
#2
Q.
Can I still get a
battery for my Accutron 214 wristwatch?
A.
The Accutron circuit was designed to run with 1.35V mercury batteries which
are no longer available in the USA. Readily available #387S or #394 batteries
are the exact same physical size as the original 214 batteries. Make
sure that you use the plastic sleeve that was on your old battery if the
new battery doesn't have one.
Modern 1.55V silver oxide batteries work well for most 214's but a small
percentage will run incredibly fast due to the
additional .2 volts. The micro-thin coil wire used in your 214 is already
working against the ravages of age. Running an over-voltage of .2V through the
delicate wire can't possibly be a good idea and the other components in the
circuit will not benefit either. Even if your 214 runs well with the new
batteries, the longevity of your coil could be at risk. There is no longer any
doubt that all 214's will benefit from a reduction in voltage back to the
original 1.35 volts. Fortunately there is a way to permanently solve the
problem. A diode which lowers battery voltage in the circuit by 0.2 volts can be
installed in the coil. This is really the best possible solution to the problem.
The watch will perform as it did when new, battery issues will be resolved, and
the life of the coil will be extended. Whether actually needed or not, this
inexpensive modification is highly
recommended. It is not noticeable and it is reversible. See
the information at: http://www.accutron214.com/AccutronBattery.htm
#3
Q.
How can I tell if my
watch is a model 214?
A.
If your watch sets from the rear of the
case it is a 214 movement. Think of it as a 1st. edition Accutron.
#4
Q.
Does Bulova still repair
the 214 and can I get parts?
A.
Bulova stopped repairing or making parts
for Accutron 214 watches years ago. Most of the repair parts used today are
taken from movements that have been salvaged from trashed cases. Some are
obtained from estate sales and retired watchmakers.
#5
Q.
How do I identify my
particular model & what information is coded into
the serial number?
A.
214's were made in the USA and in Switzerland.
Serial numbers that begin with a letter were made in the USA. (ex.A12345).
Serial no's. that begin with a number were Swiss made (ex. 1-234567). in The serial number contains
no other useful information about the watch. Inside of the back cover there is a 4
digit case number printed or stamped. That number is the key to all information
about the model. Unfortunately, on many covers the printed case numbers have been removed during a previous
cleaning.
#6
Q.
Why does the second hand jump when
my watch is shaken or set and is it OK?
A.
It's perfectly normal. 214's have
a lot of backlash in the gears. This is necessary due to the very light force
that the tuning fork is capable of exerting on the gear train. You will notice that although
the second hand sometimes jumps when you set the time, or bump the watch against
something, the hand will wait until
the backlash is used up and then start to turn again without losing a second.
#7 Q. My 214 sometimes makes a sort of buzzing/whining sound. Is this a problem and if so, what is it.
A. Railroad and Astronaut models are equipped with a part called a "hack spring". The hack spring stops the watch while the time is being set. The sound that you hear is that of the tuning fork tapping against the hack. Normally, when the setting lever is lifted the spring moves to contact the fork, thereby stopping it. When the setting lever is flipped back down flush with the case the hack should be moved away from the fork. Your hack spring is not properly adjusted.
#8
Q.
Which band or bracelet came
on my watch when it was new?
A.
I wouldn't know exactly which band came on your
watch from the factory but I do know that the Accutron line was sold exclusively
by jewelers who would swap the band on any Accutron for another which was more
to the buyers liking at the time of sale. We do know that precious metal cases
came with leather bands because the contact between a metal bracelet and the
soft case eventually causes damage to the inside of the lugs. Many customers
opted for metal bracelets anyway. Accutrons are authentic when sporting any
Accutron band
or bracelet that was available at the time of original sale.
#9 Q. My watch stopped so I installed a new battery but it won't run and it doesn't hum any more. What's wrong?
A. If the watch doesn't hum the coil is probably bad. The wire on an Accutron coil is so thin (0.0006" diameter) that it can be easily broken. Coil wire can become brittle while the watch is in storage with no battery installed due to repeated expansion and contraction over the course of many years. Momentary heat generated by high start-up current is usually the proverbial "straw that brakes the camels back". Occasionally the soldered ends of the wire break at the terminal where the wire goes into the coil. A very few of these coils (perhaps 1 out of 10) can be repaired by applying a conductive compound to the break. Most shorted coils have a break within the windings and can't be repaired.
#10
Q.
Is it OK to run an Accutron
that has been in storage for a long time?
A.
It is definitely
not OK. This is one of the common reasons why coils and index wheels fail.
When a movement
has not been serviced in many years the old oil dries up like paint and the gear
train becomes hard to turn. In addition one or more parts of the
movement can rust from moisture causing a jammed gear train. Either of these
problems will inevitably cause two kinds of damage.
1. The amperage in the coil rises and eventually the coil fails. Accutron coil wire is so thin (0.0006" diameter) that it doesn't take much to cause it to break or for the insulation to fail. Think of it as an electric motor. Motors have a built-in fan to keep them cool. When an electric motor is prevented from turning it will heat up to the point where smoke pours out of it as its' coil burns up. Repeated thermal expansion and contraction eventually leads to metal fatigue and it seems obvious to me that even a small amount of sudden thermal expansion of the delicate wire won't do the coil any good. When an Accutron is started up there is a momentary spike in the amps through the coil. It is possible for a weak or failing coil to die at the moment electricity is applied. Anyone who has had a light bulb burn out instantly when the light is switched on, has witnessed the damage that starting current can do to a filament that is already weakened from metal fatigue.
2. The tiny jewel that pushes the index wheel (ratchet) will poke at the wheel which now offers increased resistance to turning causing damage to the tiny teeth.
A clean, well lubricated Accutron will run cool and happy for a long time. I recommend a service interval of 3 to 5 years.
#11
Q.
What is the value of my watch?
A.
This is an impossible one to answer
without inspecting the movement as well as the condition of all of the external
parts. The value of any watch depends on many factors. The first and most important factor is supply and demand.
There are some 214 models that came out in the 70's that are fairly rare but
because they are not particularly attractive, they are not in demand. There are
some models that are very popular but because they are plentiful, they are not
particularly expensive. If lots of
people want a particular watch and there aren't many of them available, the value
of that watch will be higher. How high will be determined
by the following factors in order of importance:
RARITY:
Most Rare to Most Common (this list should not be considered
definitive, it is not based on statistical evidence)
* Any model in solid Platinum
** Solid gold models from 1960 (M0)
*** 14kt
Solid gold TV. (asymmetrical TV shaped case)
*** 14kt
Solid gold Alpha Spaceview. (shield shaped case)
*** 14kt
Solid gold Spaceview. (round case w/sculpted lugs)
*** 14kt
Solid gold Alpha w/Diamond or Plain Dial.
18 or 14kt Solid Gold Astronaut
18 or 14kt Gold Spaceview.
18 or 14kt Gold Doctors Pulsation Dial w/Caduceus Emblem.
1975 Anniversary Spaceview - Stainless Steel
14kt Gold Bezel Ring & Gold-Filled Bezel Astronaut
1960 (M0) Asymmetrical Model - Stainless Steel w/14kt gold inserts
Gold Filled or Stainless Steel Doctors Pulsation Dial w/Caduceus Emblem.
1975 Anniversary Spaceview - Stainless Steel Bezel
1975 Anniversary Spaceview - Gold Plated Bezel
Gold Filled or Stainless Steel Chapter Ring Spaceview.
Gold Plated or Stainless Steel Swiss Chapter Ring Spaceview.
Astronaut - Stainless Steel
Gold Filled or Stainless Steel Railroad Approved. (w/red 24 hr. and black 12
hr.
dial)
Gold Filled or Stainless Steel Railroad Approved. (w/black 12 hr. dial only)
Gold Filled or Stainless Steel w/Plain Dial. (The price of dial models also
depends on the dial. Some dials are in demand, others are not.)
* The great majority of these extremely rare platinum 214's were purchased by the
US Government to be given as gifts of state.
** Distribution and sale of the 214 began in November of 1960 so it's not
surprising that watches dated M0 (1960) are fairly rare.
*** 18kt is
extremely rare in this model. They were
purchased by special order only.
CONDITION:
Worst Case:
“not currently working”, “does not hum”,
“setting stem does not work”, “missing parts” corrosion in
movement", “badly scratched, corroded, and/or
dented case”, “discolored dial and hands”, “chipped or missing luminous
paint”, “has no watchband” “good for parts only”.
Poor: “hums but not currently working”, “sets properly”, “scratched on case and crystal”, “discolored dial and hands”, “chipped or missing luminous paint”, “has a scratched, dented, and dirty watchband”.
Average: “works”, “needs frequent re-setting”, “sets properly”, “scratches on case and crystal”, “dial and hands fairly clean”, “luminous paint may be discolored”, “has a reasonably clean watchband”, “could be used as-is”.
Good: “works and keeps time within 5 minutes per month ”, “sets properly”, “minor scratches on case and crystal”, “dial and hands clean with intact luminous paint”, “luminous paint slightly discolored”, “has a new watchband or an old, signed Accutron band”.
Excellent: “works and keeps accurate time”, “sets properly”, “faint scratches on case and crystal that could be polished out”, “dial and hands clean with intact luminous paint”, “luminous paint is pale green with minimal discoloration”, “has a clean attractive Accutron band”.
Mint: “works and keeps accurate time”, “sets properly”, “no scratches or dings on case or crystal”, “dial and hands perfect with intact luminous paint”, “luminous paint is pale green with no discoloration”, “has an original, signed, clean and undamaged Accutron watchband”.
Like New: “a mint watch with its original movement and band also in mint condition”. It is assumed that the watch was never altered from its original state. It should be noted that many old 214 watches have had their movements replaced with newer ones at the factory. This happened because Bulova often replaced an entire movement rather than repair one that was seriously damaged in a fall or from corrosion. Also be aware that there are watches out there that are assembled from parts of other watches so that the movement may be much older or newer than the case would indicate. Original watches that were assembled at the beginning or end of the year sometimes came with a movement which was made in the previous or following years production, but never with more then a one year mismatch to the case".
New Old Stock: Brand new, never worn.
ADDITIONAL FACTORS:
Color: White gold is generally rarer than yellow and is highly prized.
Recently Serviced: Any vintage watch that has been recently serviced is worth more at time of sale due to the expectation of fewer problems and greater dependability.
Warranty: A one year warranty is worth about 50% of the average service charge.
Original Boxes: No small detail. If you have the original case and outer cardboard box along with the Accutron coin and papers the value increases considerably.
First Edition: The first of its kind and/or the first year of production of a particular model. Depending on model and condition the value of "First Edition" 214 Accutrons will be much higher than most of the 218 and its variants that came after it.
#12
Q.
How do I know if my Spaceview is a conversion?
A.
First we need to establish
what the various terms really mean.
"Spaceview" is the suffix that Bulova added to the model name or number for the very few Accutron models which were produced without dials. It simply means that the movement can be seen.
"Factory Spaceview" is not an official name, it is a descriptive term meaning that the watch left the factory as a Spaceview model.
"Genuine Spaceview" means that the watch is "as factory" and as such you could never be certain if it is a factory Spaceview or a correctly done, "as factory" conversion.
"Converted Spaceview" means that the dial has been removed. Most conversions can be spotted because of errors or inconsistencies in the conversion process.
Most of the 214 Spaceview watches found today are conversions. Because of the popularity and added value of Spaceview models, brand new crystals that fit non-Spaceview models are being printed with Accutron markings today. These Spaceview crystal sizes were not made by Bulova and therefore were not available in the sixties and seventies so they couldn't have been converted at the time of sale. These watches were originally manufactured with dials. At some point the dials were removed and a Spaceview crystal was installed to simulate a genuine Spaceview model. The results vary wildly. Most of the 214 case styles made by Bulova were never sold as Spaceview models and the conversions are easily detected. Others are very difficult to spot. A properly done conversion is indistinguishable from the factory model and a few of the converted models are so attractive that they are highly sought after. Here are some things you can look for to spot an imperfect conversion.
Hands:
The hands are the best tip-off. With the exception of Swiss Spaceviews which
have gold or nickel plated hands, 1960's Spaceview hands were painted flat white.
The original white paint should appear pebbly under magnification. The hour and minute
hands always had luminous centers which makes it difficult to paint a gold or
silver hand white without getting some paint on the luminous. That doesn't stop
some dealers from simply painting over the entire hand, luminous and all.
From 1960, the year of introduction, through 1969, Spaceview second hands were always white. In 1969 a Spaceview model (the "Cushion Case") with an orange second hand was introduced. Other models followed that had orange or red second hands. Over the years many of the orange hands have faded to yellow.
Some case styles were always made with specific hand styles and these combinations changed with time, therefore, visual familiarity is required to spot a wrong combination.
Chapter Ring:
A chapter ring (Bulova calls it a reflector) is a metal ring with minute
and hour markings that fits under the crystal just above where
the dial normally would be. The chapter ring case is specially machined to
accept the reflector leaving room for the crystal to be pressed in on top of it.
Minute markers are painted around the ring with a
luminous dot or dash at 12:00 O’clock and luminous dashes at hours 1:00 through 11:00
O’clock or at 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00 O'clock. Some conversions are fitted with a
dial that has had its middle cut out to leave just the hour/minute markers. This
simulated chapter ring method has tricked many novices into paying too much for
watches that are easily seen as phonies by an experienced buyer. Take note as to
whether the ring is concave (dished) or convex (spherical). Genuine rings are
concave and cutout dials are always convex.
Cases:
When a wrong case style is converted to a Spaceview the result looks odd to a
collector. Again, visual familiarity is necessary to spot the conversion. A list of case styles known to have been made as Spaceview models is
printed below. On the inside of the rear cover of your watch, there is a painted
or stamped case number. Look for that number on the following list.
Spaceview case numbers as listed in my 1974 Accutron Case Parts Catalog
|
CASE NUMBER |
COLOR |
CALIBER |
CRYSTAL |
REFLECTOR |
|
316-1 |
W |
214 |
316-1AWS |
R549 |
| 316-4 | Pink | 214 | 316-4APS | R549 |
| 316-7 | Y | 214 | 319-1AYS | R549 |
| 319-1 | Y | 214 | 319-1AYS | R549 |
| 336-1 | Pink | 214H | 336-1APS | R582 |
| 340-1 | Y | 214H | 340-1AYS | R582 |
| 396-1 | Pink | 214 | 316-4APS | R549 |
| 446-1 | Y | 214 | 319AYS | 953-12 |
| 454-2 | Y | 214H | 454-2AYS | |
| 770 | W | 214H | 770AWS | R567 |
| 770-1 | Y | 214H | 770-1AYS | R567 |
| 770-2 | Y | 214H | 770-1AYS | R567 |
| 891 | W | 2141 | 316-1AWS | R583 |
| 891-1 | Y | 2141 | 891-1AYS | R583 |
| 891-2 | Y | 2141 | 891-1AYS | R583 |
|
2528 |
W |
214 |
1270AWS |
R523 |
|
A2528 |
W |
214 |
1431AWS |
R524 |
|
2531 |
Y |
214 |
1271AYS |
R524 |
| 3031 | Y | 214 | 1433AYS | R554 |
| 3352 | Y | 214 | 1270AYS | R523 |
| 3353 | W | 214 | 1270AWS | R523 |
| 3396 | Y | 214 | 1271AYS | R524 |
| 3418 | Y | 214 | 1270AYS |
The following case numbers are commonly found on Spaceview watches today but as of 1974 they were not listed by Bulova as cases that used Spaceview crystals.
It remains an open question as to whether they were offered as Spaceview models by Bulova or converted by dealers. Logic would dictate that if Bulova made Spaceview crystals for these cases those crystals would be listed with the suffix "S" or "SL" ("Spaceview" or "Spaceview Luminous") next to the case numbers in the Accutron Case Parts Catalog.
|
CASE NUMBER |
COLOR |
CALIBER |
CRYSTAL |
REFLECTOR |
| 2304 | Y/W | 214 | 1220-2 | |
| 2313 | Y/W | 214 | 1220-2 | |
| 2319 | W | 214 | 1220-2 | |
| 2324 | Y | 214 | 1220-2 | |
| 2354 | Y | 214 | 1220-2 | |
| 2355 | Y | 214 | 1220-2 | |
|
2362 |
W |
214 |
1210-3 |
|
|
2408 |
Y |
214 |
1222-2 |
|
| A2408 | W | 214 | 122-2 | |
|
2409 |
W |
214 |
1220-2 |
|
|
2547 |
W |
214 |
1220-2 |
|
|
2600 |
W |
214 |
1270-1AW |
R523 |
| 2624 | Y/W | 214 | 1220-2 | |
| 2625 | W | 214 | 1220-2 | |
| 2680 | W | 214 | 1220-2 |
#13 Q. What is the difference between a deceptive conversion and an honest one.
A. This is my version of a converted Spaceview: Click Here. It does not attempt to simulate an original Spaceview but rather creates a new, honest, non-factory Spaceview which will never need an increasingly rare and expensive Spaceview crystal replacement.
#14 Q. Is the red second hand on my Spaceview correct?
A. These days, most of the people who convert 214's to "Spaceview" models, and re-sell them, are painting the second hands red. A red second hand on any Spaceview should be viewed with suspicion and particularly if the date code is M9 (1969) or earlier. The only 214's that came from the factory with a red second hand prior to 1969 was the Railroad Approved model. During the early years all U.S. Spaceview models had white second hands and all Swiss Spaceview hands were gold or nickel plated. During the 70's when the 218 was king and 214 sales were lagging, Bulova introduced a few new Spaceview models which had red second hands but they did not sell very well and so we don't see very many of them.
#15 Q. Why does my Accutron seem to run slower when I don't wear it?
A. Try this yourself. Take the battery out of the watch and hold it in either hand. With the other hand smack the watch case on the side (at 3 or 9 o'clock) so as to cause the tuning fork to vibrate. Immediately observe the second hand. You will notice that the movement will run for a few seconds without a battery. Now replace the battery and imagine what happens when the movement is shocked while it is running. The answer is that the movement will gain a fraction of a second each time the tuning fork is given some extra energy due to shock or vibration. This tendency of the watch to run faster when in motion has to be compensated for by adjusting the movement to lose two seconds a day when at rest.
Putting these two influences together causes them to pretty much cancel each other out when the watch is worn.
#16 Q. What is a hack and what does it do?
A. The Hack Spring pictured below is mounted on the front of the movement. It stops the tuning fork when the setting stem is lifted. Astronauts, Railroad Approved, and many Swiss models came from the factory with the spring installed.

The "hack spring" is highlighted in the photo above
left.
Correct adjustment of this feature is critical.
#17
Q.
Should I
stop
my Accutron when I'm not wearing it?
A.
Opinions vary on this one.
NOT TO RUN: Although it takes many years to accumulate any appreciable wear on a 214 mechanism, many collectors feel that there is no point in adding unnecessary wear to a movement or coil that may already be borderline.
TO RUN CONTINUOUSLY: When an Accutron is started up there is a momentary spike in the amps through the coil. It is possible for a weak or failing coil to die at the moment electricity is applied. Think of a light bulb that blows at the moment you flip the switch. Once an Accutron is running the amps through the coil settle down to a comfortable level and even a weak coil will run indefinitely in this state. Another benefit of allowing the movement to run is that the oil on the bearings will maintain an even coating of protective lubrication on the steel gear shafts.
In my opinion, if you're not going to wear your 214 for a period of several months or more, I would back out the battery hatch a few turns until the watch stops. Otherwise let it run. Never leave a dead battery in the watch.
IMPORTANT: Keep in mind that a 214 is only vulnerable to the entry of dirt particles when the battery hatch is open. Anyone who has ever looked at his own fingers under a high power microscope will tell you that it's wise to treat the process as if it were open heart surgery. Open the patient as few times as possible but when it becomes necessary, keep the tools and parts scrupulously clean.
#18 Q. What should I do if my 214 won't start with a new battery?
A. Most 214’s will start spontaneously when a new battery is installed but some will not. Over the years the permanent magnets on the tips of your tuning fork may have lost some of their strength. If this is the case you will need to jump-start the movement. A sharp smack with the palm or knuckles of your hand at the 3 or 9 o’clock position should cause the tuning fork to start to vibrate. Once started the watch will perform normally until the battery dies.
#19
Q.
Is it true that the 360
cycle/second hum of an Accutron has a beneficial
calming effect on the wearer.
A.
I have heard this theory proposed
by folks who generally also believe in the healing power of magnets, crystals, and
pyramids. They believe that there
is something about the frequency of the softly humming tuning fork and the small
but powerful magnets in close proximity to the
arteries in the wrist that has a beneficial effect on the wearer. I don't
have a definitive answer for this one but personally, I always feel better when I'm wearing one of my
Accutrons.
#20
Q.
What musical
note is the Accutron hum closest to?
A.
A
properly set up Accutron
214 or 218 vibrates at a frequency of 360Hz (a slightly flat F# on the piano).
Copyright
2002 by Martin Marcus. All rights reserved.
These pages may not be copied without written consent.
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